In 2015, with the Emmy-nominated series Chef’s Table, we were introduced to culinary star Magnus Nilsson’s format of serving food — a Chef Tasting Menu (CTM). Though chef Ferran Adria’s El Bulli in Spain and chef Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in San Francisco, USA, are credited to have begun this trend, it catapulted to fame after this series. Initially, CTM was offered only at high-end restaurants. But, many chefs are embracing this concept and offering patrons experimental dishes now.
So, what is a CTM?
It’s a dining experience with the idea to showcase the chef’s culinary expertise. It consists of a range of bite-sized dishes as a part of a single meal. “In CTM, everything is decided by the chef, who crafts a menu according to their preferences. It is usually presented in a course-by-course fashion to highlight the chef’s signature dishes,” says Manish Mehrotra, culinary director, Indian Accent. Unlike fixed menus like à la carte, this menu changes as per seasonal produce and the chef’s philosophy.
Where did it originate?
According to Foodism, a London-based food and drink magazine, this fine dining concept originated in France. Named menu degustation by French chefs in the 1970s, it was meant to dictate an eating and drinking experience to diners while serving 10 or more small courses.
Now serving: India
With the changing dynamics of the Indian dining space, CTM, also known as the chef’s table, has become popular. Manoj, partner chef, The Piano Man, Gurugram, explains, “We had earlier introduced small chef’s table menus for special occasions. But, with the growing demand, we recently launched a gourmet delight seven-course meal, which will be available all year round.”
As people get more comfortable with the idea, the demand for CTMs is growing. Michelin Star chef Atul Kochhar, who is also a partner chef at SAGA, Gurugram, says, “Our chef’s tasting menu was launched in 2021 and has been evolving ever since. The current tasting menu is our third edition, inspired by our global take on Indian cuisines.”
Owing to the changing trends, House of Ming, the 44-year-old Chinese restaurant in Delhi, relaunched themselves with an extensive tasting menu. “After months of brainstorming, we came up with a 17-course tasting menu. This three-hour elaborate dining experience includes dishes carefully presented and paired with a plethora of Chinese teas,” says Arun Sundararaj, director of culinary operations at Taj Mahal, New Delhi.
And while some restaurants have only recently introduced this concept, Mehrotra says he brought this format to Delhi in 2009, saying, “It’s been 13 years and 80% of our food sales are from the tasting menu.”
What are the USPs?
While some restaurants offer Indian regional cuisines, others present global delicacies with a differing number of courses. For example, The Piano Man has a seven-course meal and a specially curated cocktail menu to go with it, while SAGA has added Indian spices and herbs to their cocktails, pairing them with their five courses. CHO, a Vietnamese restaurant in Delhi, offers a nine-course tasting menu.
“It’s about handing over the control back to the chef. It’s a great way to give customers an insight into the chef’s mind,” shares Vaibhav Bhargava, consultant chef of the restaurant.
Top 10 spots for CTM
Indian Accent: Six course meal of Indian cuisine Cost: ₹4,900
House of Ming: 17-course meal of Chinese cuisine with varied Chinese teas Cost: ₹12,000
Kiyan, The Roseate: Seven-course modern Indian menu till October-end; International cuisine from November to New Year Cost: ₹4,500
The Piano Man: Seven-course meal with special cocktail menu Cost: ₹4,999 plus taxes
SAGA: Five-course meal of regional delicacies and fusion food Cost: ₹4,999
CHO: Nine-courses of Vietnamese cuisine Cost: ₹3,500 plus taxes
Varq: Five-courses of modern Indian cuisine Cost: ₹5,000
Viet:nom: Five-course meal of Vietnamese cuisine Cost: ₹2,400
NH8, Radission, Udyog Vihar, Gurugram: 10-course North Indian menu with continental cuisine Cost: ₹2,500 plus taxes
Delhi Pavilion, Welcomhotel Sheraton: Three-course Delhvi cuisine meal for Cost: ₹1495 plus taxes